Victoria Rose Baby Bonnet Crochet Pattern – A Beautiful, Vintage Style, Lace Heirloom
Gallery Of Victoria Rose Baby Bonnet Crochet Pattern – A Beautiful, Vintage Style, Lace Heirloom
Victoria Rose Baby Bonnet Crochet Pattern – A Beautiful, Vintage Style, Lace Heirloom
Crochet a beautiful, vintage style, lace baby bonnet with this free crochet pattern. Delicate shells, and petals add charm to this heirloom quality piece. Crochet baby bonnets are a classic and stylish option for any baby’s wardrobe, and the Victoria Rose baby bonnet is destined to become a treasured part of your little one’s early months. Created from crochet thread, every detail has been lovingly crafted making this this lacy design a beautiful, yet modern take on the bonnets of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
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Materials Needed:Approx 200 yards of #10 crochet thread in color of your choice. Pictured is Artiste Cotton thread in “Peach Blossom”. Available for purchase from Hobby Lobby.1.5 mm steel hook. I suggest trying for a comfortable crochet experience.ScissorsYarn needleStitch markers1 yard of 5/8” ribbon. It will bunch up. If you don’t want your ribbon to bunch, try using 3/8″.
Stitches Used:ch = chainsc = single crochethdc = half double crochetdc = double crochetFPsc = front post single crochetBPsc = back post single crochetsc2tog = single crochet 2 together
Additional Terms:BLO = back loop only
5 dc shell = 5 dc in designated stitch
9 dc Shell = 9 dc in designated ch spFan = in next 8 dc, 1 dc in last dc of shellV-stitch = dc, ch 1, dc in same stitchCluster = dc2tog in same stitchPicot = ch 3, sl st in 3rd chain from hookMeasurements:3-6 months: 5” front to back, 6 1/2” tall at tallest point, with plenty of stretch
Gauge:Measures 1 3/4” across after round 5
-It is possible to make a preemie sized bonnet using #20 crochet thread and a 1.4mm steel hook. To make stringing a ribbon tie through this bonnet easier, substitute treble crochet stitches for double crochet stitches in row 34. Your V-stitch for that row will go: in same stitch.
-Scroll to the bottom of the page to see a picture of the preemie version of this hat. It is about 4″ front to back, and 5″ tall.
-If you plan to make this bonnet for organizations that support parents of “angel babies”, such as “Now I Lay Me Down To Sleep” , check to see what . For instance, NILMDTS cannot use items made with white yarn.
Victorian Rose Heirloom Baby Bonnetch 4, join to first ch with sl st, forming a circleRound 1: ch 1, 12 sc in circle. Join with sl st to first sc. Round 2: ch 1, cluster in same stitch as join, ch 1, *cluster, ch 1 in next stitch; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first cluster. Round 3: ch 1, sc in top of dc cluster, 2 sc in ch 1 space from previous round *sc in top of 2 dc cluster, 2 sc in ch 1 space from previous round, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. Round 4: 12 times, final sl st is end of round. Note: your edge will be floppy and not lay flat. This is ok.Round 5: ch 2, sk first hdc stitch, *BPsc around next 4 stitches, sk hdc stitches, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first BPsc Round 6: skip joined stitch, 5 dc shell in next BPsc, skip next stitch, sl st in next, *skip 1 stitch, 5 dc shell in next, skip next stitch, sl st in next; repeat from * around, final sl st is end of round Round 7:* ch 4, skip 2 stitches, sl st around back post of next dc, ch 4, skip 2 dc, sl st in sl st between petals from previous round; repeat from * around. Round 8: sl st in first 2 chs of first ch-4, ch 1, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 4, *sc in next ch-4 space, ch 4; repeat from * around, join to first sc with sl st. Round 9: sl st in first 2 chs of first ch-4, ch 1, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 5, *sc in next ch-4 space, ch 5; repeat from * around, join to first sc with sl st. Round 10: sl st in first 3 ch of ch-5, *ch 5, sl st in next ch-5 space, 9 dc shell in next ch-5 space, sl st in next ch-5 space; repeat from * around, placing last sl st in 3rd sl st from beginning of round. Round 11: sl st in first 3 ch of ch-5, ch 1, sc in first ch-5 space,*create fan across shell by placing in first 8 dc, 1 dc in last dc of shell, sc in ch-5 space, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. Round 12: ch 1, hdc in each dc, ch-1 sp, and sc around. Join with sl st to first hdc.
This is where we begin our turning rows for the sides of the bonnet.
Row 13: ch 1, sc in 3rd loop of next 108 hdc, ch 1, turn. Row 14: sc in the first stitch, ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in next sc, *ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in next sc; repeat from * 15 more times, then ch 5, sk 4 sts, sc in the 5th st, ch 5, turn. Row 15: sc in first ch-5 space, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space; repeat from * until you sc in the final ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into sc from previous row, ch 5, turn. Row 16: sc in ch-5 space, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space; repeat from *repeat from * until last ch-5 space, omit final sc and sl st into 3rd ch of last ch-5 space, ch 5, turn. Row 17: *sl st in ch-5 space, 9 dc shell in next ch-5 space, sl st in next ch-5 space, ch 5; repeat from * across until you join the last shell in the final ch-5 space, omit last ch 5, and ch 2 and dc in dc from previous row, turn. Row 18: *create fan across next shell, sc in ch-5 space, repeat from * across, join final fan with sl st in 3rd ch of final ch-5 space, turn. Row 19: *ch 4, sl st in each ch-1 sp from previous row and in sc between fans; repeat from * around, attach final ch-4 loop to top of dc from previous row, ch 1, turn. Row 20: * 8 times, FPsc around last dc of fan, FPsc around sc from row 18; repeat from * to end of row, ch 1, turn. Note: keep your chains loose so the bonnet doesn’t start to cinch in. Row 21: hdc in each FPsc and ch stitch across, ch 1, turn.
Rows 22-29: Repeat rows 14-21 one time, omitting the turn at the end of row 21.
Continue working this next part down around the bottom edge of the bonnet:
Row 30: Working in the ends of rows 13-29, evenly space 25 sc along nearest bottom side, 24 sc across the back by working in 3rd loop 12 times, and then evenly space 25 sc along far bottom side. Using stitch markers to mark the beginning and end of each section may help you keep your numbers straight. When you get to the end of the row, ch 3 , turn.Row 31: skip 2 stitches, * in next , skip 2 stitches* repeat * to * 7 more times for a total of 8 V-stitches, sl st in next 2 sc, 4 times, sl st in next 2 stitches, sk 2 stitches, repeat * to * 8 times, dc in final stitch, ch 1, turnRow 32: * in ch-1 space, sl st between V-stitches; repeat from * 7 more times for a total of 8 petals. Sl st over 2 stitches, 4 times for a total of 4 petals, Note: Your edge will be floppy, this is ok. We’ll fix it in the next row. sl st over 2 stitches and into first ch-1 space repeat * to * 8 more times for a total of 8 petals, ch 2, turn. Row 33: skip first hdc of petal and FPsc around next 4 dc stitches, *skip 2 hdc, FPsc around next 4 dc stitches* repeat * to * 6 more times. When you get to the back of the bonnet sl st across it. Skip first hdc of side petal from row 32 and FPsc around next 4 dc stitches,; repeat * to* 7 more times, ch 3 .
Continue working this next section down the front edge of the bonnet, working in the V-stitches in row 29. You will need to have a total of 31 V-stitches when you finish this section. I’ve given you approximate stitch locations for working the first V-stitch, and last 2 V-stitches. It is important that you have 2 V-stitches after working the stitches across row 29. Your second V-stitch of this row should be in the first hdc of row 29.
Row 34: V-stitch in side of hdc from petal in row 32, skip to first hdc from row 29 and work a V-stitch, *sk 3 sts, V-stitch in next; repeat from * 28 more times, placing final V-stitch in side of hdc of petal from row 32, dc in side of FPsc from row 33, ch 1, turn. Row 35: in first ch-1 space , sl st between first and second V-stitch, * in next ch-1 space, sl st between V-stitches; repeat from * 29 more times for a total of 31 petals, ch 2, turn. Row 36: skip first hdc of petal and FPsc around next 4 dc, *skip 2 hdc, FPsc around next 4 dc* repeat from * to end. Round 37: now you’ll start working down the bottom side of the bonnet, work 3 slip stitches along the dc from row 34 until you come to the FPsc stitches from row 34, *ch 4, sl st between petals* repeat * to * 7 more times for a total of 8 ch-4 loops, then working in front of the 4 petals across the back, 30 times for a total of 30 ch-5 loops , sc in final 2 stitches of row. Do not join, instead, ch 1, turn.
Row 38: sl st over 2 sc stitches just made and to top of first ch-5 space , work 9 dc shell in next ch-5 space, join with sl st in next ch-5 space, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space, 9 dc shell in next ch-5 space, join with sl st in next ch-5 space; repeat from * until you join last shell in final ch-5 space, sl st down remaining chs and 2 sc , turn. Row 39: *create fan across next shell, sc in ch-5 space; repeat from * across, join final fan with sl st in end of row, turn. Row 40: * in each ch 1 space and sc between the fans, repeat from * across attaching final ch-4 loop to top of dc from previous row.
The Victoria Rose Baby Bonnet crochet pattern worked with a 1.4mm hook in vintage, Coats & Clark #20 crochet thread I picked up at a thrift store. It will need washing before I donate it to my local NICU, but isn’t it so cute?! <3
Continue working along bottom edge:
Row 41: sl st down to first ch-4 space, sl st into first ch-4 space, *move to next ch-4 space, ; repeat from * 19 more times for a total of 20 petals.
Attach yarn with a sl st to any hdc in round 12, and work in ridge at back of hat: *ch 4, sk 2, sl st in next, repeat from * around.
Attach ribbon ties near bottom, front of hat, or weave it through row 34.
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This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows and other events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that it not be used commercially to produce millions of copies.
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WOW! That’s the most beautiful baby bonnet I’ve ever seen.
Thank you so much for giving the pattern and all your hard work to us.
Aww, thank you for the sweet comment, Laura! It’s my pleasure!